Proper dirt bike setup is essential whether you’re racing enduro or hitting the trails on weekends. This comprehensive enduro bike setup guide covers everything from suspension sag to handlebar positioning to make your bike race-ready.

Setting up a dirt bike for a rider is a very individual ritual. Even though there are plenty of foundational starting points, every rider should still test and evolve their setup for their riding style, terrain, and enjoyment. Brian Storrie helps me understand the baseline settings for dirt bike setup so we can then evolve the GasGas EX350F for my 2025 challenge of taking on the National Enduro Series.

Dirt Bike Suspension Setup: Setting Sag Properly

Setting the sag on your dirt bike is very important. There’s a range of numbers, typically set in the manual, that the manufactures want you to be in for the bike to work to what they believe will be the best performance and handling. These numbers are just that though, a range. Every rider is different, along with the terrain they’ll be riding in. 

The free sag for the GasGas is recommended to be set at 35mm. This is the number the bike should be sitting at without a rider on it, only the weight of the bike compressing the suspension. If this number is too small, compared to rider sag, a heavier spring may be needed. If this number is too big, compared to rider sag, a lighter spring may be needed.

The rider sag in the manual for the GasGas EX is set at 102mm. The rider sag for the MC version of this bike is set at 105mm. Due to Brian Storrie’s history on this motorcycle, we’re working toward 105mm as our number to range around.

As the rider, you’re going to want to be as close to completely geared up as possible when setting your sag. What are the non-negotiables while riding, have those on when setting sag. Helmets are light enough these days, you can opt to set sag without your helmet on. Just stay consistent as you check your sag for future rides.

When we first checked the free sag, the bike was at 41mm. The rider sag netted out at 104mm. Storrie wanted to add some preload to the spring because he believed, with his years of experience, that adding preload would be ok for me and my riding style with the EX350F. After adding a full round of preload, I tested the bike and it felt really good, nothing noticeable stood out. Storrie said this is a good way to test. If something noticeable stands out right away after a change, was it good or bad? If it affected you in a negative way, there’s no reason to stay there just because a manual tells you to. If you didn’t really notice, it was probably a good change.

If you need a sag tool, the one we used in the video is the Motion Pro Sag Tool, and the Slacker Sag Tool Storrie mentioned is another great option. We made a Slacker setup video if you want to see it in action..

Enduro Bike Handlebar Setup and Lever Position

Regardless of what you’ve done in the past, with a new bike it’s always a good idea to start at baseline. As you ride a test loop, or track, you can start to make changes from those baseline settings toward what you think you might prefer from previous bikes.

Baseline for handlebar positioning should be set at the zero mark on the bar in the handlebar clamps. Levers should be angled in a way that you can easily reach them while standing, or sitting. If you know you sit or stand more, adjusting the angle for that makes sense. Just remember to test and see what you feel actually works best versus making assumptions.

Lever perch placement on the handlebars should be placed so your pointer and middle finger can fit into the pocket of the lever. This should be setup when your hand is placed in the middle of the grip. As you feel your hands, or body, moving inside or outside during testing, you can adjust the lever perch so you’re grabbing the lever pocket correctly while riding, not just sitting on the bike.

As before, you’ll notice poor adjustments quickly. If you don’t notice a change, it may be moving in the correct direction. Use lap times to determine if it helped you ride faster, maybe without even noticing how effective it was.

Rear Brake Pedal Setup for Dirt Bikes

If your rear brake pedal is too high, and you’re lifting your foot off of the peg to press the pedal, you’re turning the rear brake into an on and off switch. You won’t have the ability to modulate as well, and your heavy boot bouncing down the trail will just drive itself onto the pedal.

The more you sit while you ride, the lower your pedal will probably need to be. As you begin to stand more, raising your pedal height will work better for the standing position. 

For four stroke riders who have an issue stalling their bike a lot, Storrie suggests lowering your brake pedal some. He mentioned to me there’s a good chance some of my early stalling issues could be due to the rear brake engaging sooner than I was ready for it too, causing the four stroke to stall.

Four Stroke vs Two Stroke Setup Considerations

The GasGas EX350F is meant to be ridden fast. I was blown away by the power from day one. As I am getting more comfortable on the bike, it continues to prove to me that this bike was meant to be raced. 

Every day on the bike I get a little bit better at using the clutch, and keeping the stalling to a minimum. Every time a stall happens now, I stop and think about what I was doing, what I was riding, and why I stalled the bike. I’m not convinced that just because it’s a four stroke that it stalls. I’ve already started to smooth out my clutch use, and power delivery, causing faster lap times and minimum flame outs. 

I don’t think this bike is fun to trail ride on. When Liam and I have gone out to ride together I don’t like breathing down his neck with this barking four stroke. In those scenarios with Liam, and the days of play riding, I do miss the two stroke. The two stroke seemed to exude a good time, where the four stroke wants you to ride fast AF.

All that to say, it’s the perfect bike for me this year! I believe the EX350F is going to be a very competitive enduro race machine. I may not win classes, but I know I’ll ride as fast as I can, while wearing a wide grin beneath my helmet.

Quick Dirt Bike Setup Checklist

Before you start riding, make sure you’ve dialed in these key settings:

• Set free sag (typically 30-40mm depending on your bike)
• Set rider sag (typically 100-110mm depending on your bike)
• Adjust handlebar position to zero baseline
• Position brake and clutch levers for standing position
• Set rear brake pedal height for proper modulation
• Test and refine based on your riding style

Dirt Bike Setup FAQs

What is the difference between free sag and rider sag?

Free sag measures how much your dirt bike’s suspension compresses under just the weight of the bike itself, with no rider. Rider sag measures the compression with you on the bike in full gear. These two measurements together tell you if your spring rate is correct for your weight and riding style.

How often should I check my dirt bike sag settings?

You should check your sag settings whenever you change major components like springs or suspension settings, if you gain or lose significant weight, or if you notice handling changes. It’s also good practice to verify your enduro bike setup at the start of each riding season.

Should enduro bike setup be different than motocross setup?

Yes. Enduro bike setup typically runs slightly softer suspension and different sag numbers compared to motocross because of varied terrain. Enduro riders face rocks, roots, and technical sections that benefit from more plush suspension, while motocross tracks have bigger jumps and smoother surfaces that need firmer settings.

What dirt bike setup should beginners start with?

Beginners should start with the manufacturer’s recommended baseline settings from the owner’s manual. Set your sag to the middle of the recommended range, position handlebars at the zero mark, and adjust levers for comfortable reach while standing. Make small changes one at a time so you can feel what each adjustment does.

Can I use the same setup for trail riding and racing?

Your race setup will usually be more aggressive than your trail riding setup. For racing, you’ll want firmer suspension and more aggressive positioning. For trail riding, especially on technical terrain, slightly softer settings and more comfortable ergonomics work better. The great thing about dirt bike setup is you can adjust it based on where you’re riding.

About Brian Storrie

Over 25 years ago, I heard a great tuner say “The best you have ridden is the best you know”. That still holds up today, and I have spent these 25 years helping rider’s find a better feeling with their bike.

I also enjoy helping rider’s and their crews understand the physics of how the bike and rider need to work together for the best result. 

I have worked with MX and Offroad rider’s of all levels from beginner to national Pro’s.

I am still an avid rider/racer who enjoys MX and Offroad racing regularly, and if you hire me to help you with riding lessons or bike setup, don’t be surprised if I’m on track whenever you need a break!

I’m also proud to say that I am an 18 time Team USA ISDE rider, and a Glen Helen Over 50 expert World MX champion. 

Send Brian Storrie a message on Facebook or Instagram and let’s get some seat time!

Enjoyed this content? Support Seat Time w/ these links!